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Piston
Diagnostic Guide
By Eric Gorr
The process of examining
a used piston can tell a mechanic helpful information on the condition
of an engine. When an engine failure occurs, the piston is likely to take
the brunt of the damage. A careful examination of the piston can help
a mechanic trace the source of a mechanical or tuning problem. This technical
article serves as a guide for the most common mechanical problems that
plague engines.
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PERFECT
BROWN CROWN
The crown of
this piston shows an ideal carbon pattern. The transfer ports of
this two-stroke engine are flowing equally and the color of the
carbon pattern is chocolate brown. That indicates that this engine's
carb is jetted correctly.
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BLACK
SPOT HOT
The underside
of this piston has a black spot. The black spot is a carbon deposit
that resulted from pre-mix oil burning on to the piston because
the piston's crown was too hot. The main reasons for this problem
are overheating due to too lean carb jetting or coolant system failure.
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ASH
TRASH
This piston
crown has an ash color, which shows that the engine has run hot.
The ash color is actually piston material that has started to flash
(melt) and turned to tiny flakes. If this engine was run any longer,
it probably would,ve developed a hot spot and hole near the exhaust
side and failed. The main causes of this problem are too lean carb
jetting, too hot spark plug range, too far advanced ignition timing,
too much compression for the fuel's octane, or a general overheating
problem.
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SMASHED
DEBRIS
This piston
crown has been damaged because debris entered the combustion chamber
and was crushed between the piston and the cylinder head. This engine
had a corresponding damage pattern on the head's squish band. The
common causes of this problem are broken needle bearings from the
small or big end bearings of the connecting rod, broken ring ends,
or a dislodged ring centering pin. When A problem like this occurs,
its important to locate where the debris originated. Also the crankcases
must be flushed out to remove any left over debris that could cause
the same damage again. If the debris originated from the big end
of the connecting rod, then the crankshaft should be replaced along
with the main bearings and seals.
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CHIPPED
CROWN DROWNED
This piston
crown chipped at the top ring groove because of a head gasket leak.
The coolant is drawn into the combustion chamber on the down-stroke
of the piston. When the coolant hits the piston crown it makes the
aluminum brittle and it eventually cracks. In extreme cases the
head gasket leak can cause erosion at the top edge of the cylinder
and the corresponding area of the head. Minor leaks of the gasket
or o-ring appear as black spots across the gasket surface. An engine
that suffers from coolant being pressurized and forced out of the
radiator cap's vent tube, is a strong indication of a head gasket
leak. In most cases the top of the cylinder and the face of the
cylinder head must be resurfaced when a leak occurs. Most mx bikes
have head stays mounting the head to the frame. Over time the head
can become warped near the head stay mounting tab, because of the
forces transferred through the frame from the top shock mount. It's
important to check for warpage of the head every time you rebuild
the top end.
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SHATTERED
SKIRT
The skirts
of this piston shattered because the piston to cylinder clearance
was too great. When the piston is allowed to rattle in the cylinder
bore, it develops stress cracks and eventually shatters.
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SNAPPED
ROD
The connecting
rod of this engine snapped in half because the clearance between
the rod and the thrust washers of the big end was too great. When
the big end bearing wears out, the radial deflection of the rod
becomes excessive and the rod suffers from torsion vibration. This
leads to connecting rod breakage and catastrophic engine damage.
The big end clearance should be checked every time you rebuild the
top end. To check the side clearance of the connecting rod, insert
a feeler gauge between the rod and a thrust washer. Check the maximum
wear limits in your engine's factory service manual.
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FOUR-CORNER
SEIZURE
This piston
has vertical seizure marks at four equally spaced points around
the circumference. A four-corner seizure is caused when the piston
expands faster than the cylinder and the clearance between the piston
and cylinder is reduced. Another common problem of this type is
a single point seizure on the center of the exhaust side of the
piston. However this occurs only on cylinders with bridged exhaust
ports. The main causes for this problem are too quick warm-up, too
lean carb jetting (main jet), or too hot of a spark plug range.
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MULTI-POINT
SEIZURE
This piston
has many vertical seizure marks around the circumference. This cylinder
was bored to a diameter that was too small for the piston. As soon
as the engine started and the piston started its thermal expansion,
the piston pressed up against the cylinder walls and seized. The
optimum piston to cylinder wall clearances for different types of
cylinders vary greatly. For example a 50cc composite plated cylinder
can use a piston to cylinder wall clearance of .0015 inches, whereas
a 1200cc steel-sleeved cylinder snowmobile set-up for grass drags
will need between .0055 to .0075 inches. For the best recommendation
on the optimum piston to cylinder clearance for your engine, look
to the specs that come packaged with the piston or consult your
factory service manual.
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INTAKE
SIDE SEIZURE
This piston
was seized on the intake side. This is very uncommon and is caused
by only one thing, loss of lubrication. There are three possible
causes for loss of lubrication, no pre-mix oil, separation of the
fuel and pre-mix oil in the fuel tank, water passed through the
air-filter and washed the oil film off the piston skirt.
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COMPOSITE
FLAKING
Most two-stroke
cylinders used on motorcycles and snowmobiles, have composite plated
cylinders. The composite material is made of tiny silicon carbide
particles. The electro-plating process enables the silicon carbide
particles to bond to the cylinder wall. The particles are very hard
and sharp, they don't bond to the ports so the manufacturer or reconditioning
specialist must thoroughly clean the cylinder. Sometimes the silicon
carbide "flashing" breaks loose from the ports and becomes
wedged between the cylinder and the piston. This causes tiny vertical
scratches in the piston. This problem isn't necessarily dangerous
and doesn't cause catastrophic piston failure, but it should be
addressed by thoroughly flushing the cylinder and ball-honing the
bore to redefine the cross-hatching marks. Normally you will need
to replace the piston kit because the scratches will reduce the
piston's diameter beyond the wear spec.
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BURNT-OUT
BLOW-HOLE
This piston
was overheated so badly that a hole melted through the crown and
collapsed the ring grooves on the exhaust side. Normally the piston
temperature is higher on the exhaust side so catastrophic problems
will appear there first. There are several reasons for a failure
like this, here are the most common; air-leak at the magneto side
crankshaft seal, too lean carb jetting, too far advanced ignition
timing or faulty igniter box, too hot of a spark plug range, too
high of a compression ratio, too low octane fuel.
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BLOW-BY
This piston
didn't fail in operation but it does show the most common problem,
blow-by. The rings were worn past the maximum ring end gap spec,
allowing combustion pressure to seep past the rings and down the
piston skirt causing a distinct carbon pattern. Its possible that
the cylinder walls cross-hatched honing pattern is partly to blame.
If the cylinder walls are glazed or worn too far, even new rings
won't seal properly to prevent a blow-by problem. Flex-Hones is
a product available at most auto parts stores. They can be used
to remove oil glazing and restore cross-hatch honing marks that
enable the rings to wear to the cylinder and form a good seal. If
you purchase a Flex-Hone for your cylinder, the proper grit is 240
and the size should be 10% smaller than the bore diameter.
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